Where to Stay in Buenos Aires for First Timers

7 Best Neighborhoods & Areas to Stay in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires sprawls over 78 square miles of terrain along the La Plata River. And that’s just the city itself. The 13 million people in the Buenos Aires metropolitan area include many neighboring suburbs in the surrounding Buenos Aires Province (though most tourists won’t want to visit “Provincia,” apart from maybe a day trip to Tigre). 

Officially, Buenos Aires has 48 different neighborhoods. Most of the city’s neighborhoods are not ideal for tourists visiting Buenos Aires for the first time, though. In general, most visitors should stay in one of the following areas:

Centro Buenos Aires (San Nicolás / Montserrat / Microcentro)

👉 Best for First-Timers | ✨ Best Centro Hotels: Huinid Obelisco Hotel ($$) • Esplendor by Wyndham Tango ($$) • Howard Johnson Plaza ($$) • Buenos Aires Marriott ($$$$) • Up Congreso Hotel ($) • Che Juan Hostel BA ($)

Downtown Buenos Aires (“Centro”) is composed of San Nicolás (aka “Microcentro”) and Monserrat, two neighborhoods straddling the bustling Avenida 9 de Julio. For first-timers on a short visit, I’d suggest staying here. 

Centro is home to many of the top attractions in Buenos Aires, and is within walking distance to most of the others. It’s a mixed-use area featuring historic architecture, performing arts venues, shopping, and restaurants. 

Teatro Colón is one of the world’s most famous theatres. Plaza de Mayo is where you’ll find the Casa Rosada, Argentina’s Presidential Palace. 

There’s also Congreso, the national legislature located in a distinctive green-domed building. And the famous Obelisco monument dominates the center of Avenida 9 de Julio (pro tip: the police station across the street has stairs that lead to the perfect photo spot). 

Window shop while strolling the pedestrian walkways of Florida and Lavalle streets. Also be sure to walk Avenida Corrientes, which I call the “Broadway of Buenos Aires,” around dusk when the old-school theaters turn on their neon lights. 

There are lots of hotels in Centro to choose from, and I’ve personally stayed in many of them over my many visits.

My top recommendation in the mid-range category is the Huinid Obelisco Hotel because it’s very reasonably priced. We loved the clean, modern, and comfortable rooms. 

Another value option we’ve stayed at is the Howard Johnson Plaza Buenos Aires. It’s no-frills but the location is unbeatable and the price is right. 

If you want something slightly fancier that still won’t break the bank, Clara and I also really enjoyed our stay at the stylish Esplendor by Wyndham Buenos Aires Tango. The rooftop pool is stellar, and the location can’t be beat. It’s perfect for couples. 

For an even more luxurious stay, we loved the two weeks we spent at the Marriott Buenos Aires. For Marriott Bonvoy elites, it has a really nice executive lounge. We also adored the stunning rooftop gym and pool, set in a glass solarium showcasing incredible city views. 

Lastly, for the backpacker crowd, the best hostel in town is Che Juan Hostel BA. 

Pros of Staying in Centro Buenos Aires:

• Super central location – easy to explore the top sites on foot 
• Lots of great art, cafes, pizza shops
• Downtown has a ton of energy 
• Many hotels to choose from

Cons of Staying in Centro Buenos Aires:

• It’s an older historic area, and upkeep has been inconsistent 
• Though generally safe, petty theft does happen here (don’t walk with your phone out!)

Recoleta

👉 Best Area For Arts, Culture, & Sightseeing | ✨ Best Recoleta Hotels: Alvear Palace Hotel ($$$$) • Palacio Duhau ($$$$) • Palladio Hotel ($$$) • Melia Recoleta Plaza ($$$) • Urban Suites Recoleta ($$) • Blank Hotel Recoleta ($$) • ARC Recoleta Boutique ($$) • Up Barrio Norte ($)

Recoleta is one of the most upscale parts of Buenos Aires, and gives off a similar vibe to Paris or Madrid. 

It is centrally located, surrounded by parks and green spaces, and filled with restaurants, cafes, and museums. Recoleta is characterized by soaring historic buildings, Parisian townhomes, traffic circles featuring incredible statue work, cute bookstores, and prestigious universities. 

Recoleta also has many attractions (second only to Centro). The most famous is the gorgeous Recoleta Cemetery, home to the tomb of Argentinian icon Eva Perón. 

You’ll also find several of South America’s best art museums: Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (fine arts), Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo (decorative arts), and MALBA modern art museum.

The Recoleta Cultural Center is also worth a visit, as is the weekend market at Plaza Francia out front. Nearby, snap a photo at Floralis Generica, a giant steel flower sculpture. Next door, admire the impressive Greco-Roman columns at Clara’s law school, the Facultad de Derecho. 

Be sure to check out the gorgeous El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore. And you’ll find a cluster of restaurants and bars in and around Recoleta Urban Mall. 

Overall, Recoleta is the place to stay to experience the finer side of Buenos Aires.

Palladio Hotel Buenos Aires is my top-suggested hotel in all of Buenos Aires. It’s in Recoleta, but on the side closest to the attractions of Centro. It’s definitely the best-value 5-star hotel in town.  

Now, if price is no object to you, consider two of the fanciest 5-star hotels in the city: the iconic Alvear Palace Hotel and the stunning Palacio Duhau. If money is no object, you can’t go wrong with either. 

For families or couples looking for a 4-star option, check out Urban Suites Recoleta Boutique, which offers spacious multi-bed rooms with views over Recoleta Cemetery. 

Recoleta also has several quality boutique hotels in the $100-200/night price range: ARC Recoleta Boutique and Blank Hotel are the best in that category. 

On a tight budget? There aren’t many options in Recoleta, but a good one is Up Barrio Norte. If you don’t mind the windowless rooms, you can find deals from $50/night. Hey, with the hotel’s perfect location, you’ll likely be out exploring all day anyway! 

Pros of Staying in Recoleta Neighborhood:

• One of the most walkable areas, with wide strollable streets
• Central location (perfectly situated between downtown Buenos Aires and Palermo)
• One of the city’s two safest neighborhoods, along with Puerto Madero

Cons of Staying in Recoleta Neighborhood:

• Street noise can be an issue (if your hotel is on a main avenue, get a room on a high floor)

Palermo Soho

👉 Best Area for Longer Stays | ✨ Best Palermo Soho Hotels: Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa ($$$) • Casa Joseph Apartments ($$) • Dazzler by Wyndham Polo ($$)

Palermo is a massive residential neighborhood to the west of the city that some have compared to New York City’s West Village. Palermo is characterized by tree-lined streets filled with restaurants, cafes, bars, and nightclubs. 

On a weekend, Palermo is the place to be in Buenos Aires. Stay here if dining and nightlife are your priorities.

But also realize the sacrifice you’re making: Palermo’s location is quite inconvenient for sightseeing. For this reason, it’s really best for longer stays of a week or more.

Palermo is so big that it’s broken down into several named subdivisions. The most popular ones are “Soho” and “Hollywood.” I personally prefer Palermo Soho. It has a better mix of shopping, residential, dining, and nightlife areas. 

In particular, you’ll find a huge cluster of bars, restaurants, and cafes around the famous Plaza Serrano. The nearby Plaza Armenia is also worth a stroll. 

Because Palermo is residential, a lot of accommodation is apartment-style. This has attracted many less-than-professional operators, and I’ve had a few horror stories myself with sketchy apartment rentals. The key is to choose a rental with lots of good reviews. To help you out, here’s a list of Airbnb rentals in Palermo, sorted by the best reviews. 

I particularly recommend Casa Joseph, a well-reviewed operator whose studios have mini kitchens perfect for a week-long stay. 

In terms of hotels, there aren’t many in Palermo. The Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa is a good choice if you like adorable boutiques with character. If you prefer the amenities of a larger hotel, the Dazzler by Wyndham Polo is your best bet. 

Pros of Staying in Palermo Soho Neighborhood:

• Leafy, walkable streets
• Tons of great cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops
• A relatively safe(r) area of Buenos Aires

Cons of Staying in Palermo Soho Neighborhood:

• Location is far from the attractions and sites 
• Few hotels to choose from
• Some areas (especially around Plaza Serrano) get quite loud on weekend nights

Palermo Hollywood

👉 Best Area For Dining & Nightlife | ✨ Best Palermo Hollywood Hotels: Deluxe Apartments in Palermo – by BueRentals ($$) • Ilum Experience Home ($$) • Fierro Hotel Buenos Aires ($$$)

Palermo Hollywood got its name because this area has historically been home to several Argentinian TV and movie production studios. As a neighborhood, it’s very similar to Palermo Soho, but you’ll find more restaurants and nightclubs – and fewer shopping areas.

Overall, Palermo Hollywood is ideal for foodies looking to dine out or for partiers looking to go out all night. 

Sidewalk corners are filled by the neighborhood’s many restaurants (there are far too many to name them all here, but see my mini guide below for some favorites). Just realize everything in Argentina operates on a late schedule. Dinner time typically starts around 9-10 pm. 

Palermo Hollywood is also the nightlife epicenter of Buenos Aires. Start your night with a beer at Temple or El Galpón, or a cocktail at Uptown (a speakeasy you enter through a subway car). Then listen to live rock music at Makena Cantina Club. 

If you can stay up until 2-3 am, when the nightclubs open (yup, I said “open”), head to Niceto Vega street where clubs pump music until past dawn – even on weekdays!

Apartment rentals are typically the way I go when staying in Palermo Hollywood. I’d specifically recommend Deluxe Apartments in Palermo – by BueRentals, a well-managed property in a quiet spot on Fitz Roy (my favorite street in Hollywood). 

There are very few hotels in Hollywood. Ilum Experience Home is one good local-style mid-range boutique, while Fierro Hotel is pricey but the nicest boutique hotel in Palermo. 

Pros of Staying in Palermo Hollywood:

• The best “ambiance” in Buenos Aires, with leafy and highly walkable streets
• Home to some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires
• Great nightlife options for the party crowd

Cons of Staying in Palermo Hollywood:

• The location is far from most Buenos Aires sites, so not ideal for short stays 
• Few hotels and apartment rentals get pricey 
• It’s a nightlife area, so some parts can get noisy at night 
• No real “attractions” of note, just a lot of dining and nightlife

Puerto Madero

👉 Best Area For Modern Luxury | ✨ Best Puerto Madero Hotels: Alvear Icon Hotel ($$$$) • Faena Hotel Buenos Aires ($$$$) • Hilton Buenos Aires ($$$$) • SLS Buenos Aires Puerto Madero ($$$)

Puerto Madero is a converted dock that’s now the city’s most affluent area. No question, this is the fanciest, cleanest, safest, and most modern part of Buenos Aires. It’s also my personal favorite, though I can only rarely afford to stay here. 

Where the docks used to be, you’ll find a large pedestrian boardwalk running parallel on both sides of the narrow Rio Dique. It’s dotted with steakhouses, restaurants, ice cream parlors, and trendy cafes. 

On a nice day, it’s the perfect place for a sunset stroll along the Puente de la Mujer suspension bridge. A short walk away, toward the main river, is the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, which has a lot of green space and trails perfect for jogging. 

Puerto Madero is home to several luxury hotels. The Alvear Icon Hotel is the most famous. As the name suggests, it’s something of a local icon (celebrities often stay here). 

A lesser-known luxury hotel to consider is the SLS Buenos Aires Puerto Madero. Its prices are typically quite a bit cheaper than the Alvear, but it still offers posh rooms. 

Lastly, the Hilton Buenos Aires is really good, too. It offers an incredible location right on the waterfront. It’s ideal for families who don’t mind paying for a prime location. 

Pros of Staying in Puerto Madero Neighborhood:

• Location is just a short walk to the attractions in Centro or San Telmo
• The single safest area of Buenos Aires
• Luxurious, modern accommodation 
• Super clean and walkable streets 
• Tons of fancy restaurants and places to eat 

Cons of Staying in Puerto Madero Neighborhood:

• Expensive
• Feels a little sterile in places, like many business districts

San Telmo

👉 Best Area For Affordability & Local Culture | ✨ Best San Telmo Hotels & Hostels: Anselmo Buenos Aires, Curio Collection by Hilton ($$$) • Lemon Suites ($$) • Circus Hostel ($)

Located south of Centro, San Telmo is one of the more historic parts of Buenos Aires, and it has a bit of a bohemian vibe. 

San Telmo is famous for cobblestone streets lined with street art, musical performers, and antique shops. Even if you pick a different neighborhood as your base, you can’t miss the Sunday San Telmo Street Fair around Plaza Dorrego. Come and browse the stalls, then grab a bite at one of the food stalls at the San Telmo Market. 

The best hotel here is the Anselmo Buenos Aires, a Curio Collection hotel. 

If you want affordable apartment-style accommodation, Lemon Suites is a good bet. And, for the backpacker crowd, Circus Hostel is the place to stay. 

While San Telmo is mostly a safe area to stay, I would suggest extra caution when walking here at night. The biggest risk is petty theft, so don’t have your phone out where someone could grab it. 

Pros of Staying in San Telmo Neighborhood:

• Relatively affordable accommodation
• Easy to walk to Centro, Puerto Madero, or La Boca
• Lots of local culture
• Has a more authentic vibe in some ways 

Cons of Staying in San Telmo Neighborhood:

• Has earned a bit of a reputation for crime and petty theft, though San Telmo is slowly getting safer
• Not many hotels to choose from

Retiro

👉 Closest to Cruise Port  | ✨ Best Retiro Hotels: Almarena Puerto Retiro Affiliated by Melia ($$) • Sheraton Buenos Aires Hotel ($$$$)

Retiro is a small neighborhood connecting Centro, Recoleta, and Puerto Madero. Retiro is primarily a transit hub for everything from rail passengers to cargo vessels coming into the docks. 

Retiro’s location is very central, but in my opinion, it feels dull and industrial. It’s an area I walk through frequently, but seldom where I linger. I hesitated to even include it in this guide, but I do think it’s worth consideration for a few specific categories of travelers. 

If you’re planning to take a cruise, Retiro is the closest area to the cruise port. It’s also close to the ferry terminal (for trips to Uruguay) and the Retiro train station (for trips to the province). 

Clara and I stayed at Almarena Puerto Retiro Affiliated by Melia (pictured above). The rooms were spacious and very modern. Prices start at just $100 per night, which is an incredible deal for a 4-star hotel in Buenos Aires. But, of course, there was a trade-off: the area right around the hotel just isn’t that nice to walk in (and at night can even feel a little sketchy).  

For travelers loyal to the Marriott brand, you could also consider the Sheraton Buenos Aires Hotel in Retiro (though, in my opinion, it’s worth the extra cost to upgrade to the Buenos Aires Marriott). 

Pros of Staying in Retiro Neighborhood:

• Central location, walkable to many other areas 
• Convenient to the cruise port, Buquebus ferries, and the rail station

Cons of Staying in Retiro Neighborhood:

• Parts of Retiro can get sketchy in the evenings 
• Feels kinda industrial 
• Noise from the port may be an issue 

Tips for Staying in Buenos Aires

Realize that Buenos Aires is a Massive City

So when choosing where to stay, think first about finding a convenient location relative to what you want to do in Buenos Aires. If sightseeing is top of your list, consider staying in Centro or in Recoleta. If dining and nightlife are the priority, then the Palermo neighborhood may be better for you.

Thankfully, Ubers and taxis are cheap and plentiful. And the Buenos Aires Subte (subway) is pretty good too. So it’s definitely possible to move around the city during your stay. But, as Buenos Aires is such a great city for walking, it’s always better to find a place within walking distance of the things you plan to do.

Watch Out for Doggie Poo

As I mentioned, one of the great things about Buenos Aires is that the city is just made for taking a stroll. Between the leafy tree-lined streets and the abundant street art, walking in Buenos Aires is a joy. 

Except for the fact that dog poo is literally everywhere on the sidewalks!

For whatever reason, many porteños choose not to pick up after their pups. I’ve been to literally hundreds of cities all around the world, and I’ve never seen a place with more dog poop on the sidewalks! It’s a real shame, but the truth is you need to always keep one eye out or else you’ll inevitably end up stepping in it!

Buenos Aires is Safe, But Watch Your Valuables In Public

Buenos Aires is a generally safe place to visit. Violent crime is rare, but petty crime, theft, and scams are, honestly, fairly common. This is true even (and, in fact, especially) in the more touristy Buenos Aires neighborhoods. 

Keep your phone in your pocket as much as possible on the streets, as thieves have been known to ride by on motos and snatch phones out of the air. This has happened to many people I know. 

Also, when sitting down at restaurants or cafes in Buenos Aires, be very attentive to where you put your bags and valuables. Once, a thief tried to steal Clara’s phone this way. I grabbed it just in time – and I’ll never let her forget that I, the tourist, was more on guard than her, the local 😉

Buenos Aires Runs on a Late Schedule

Tourists who are used to eating dinner around 6:30 or 7 pm are in for a surprise in Argentina. In Buenos Aires, most restaurants won’t even be open then! Typically, locals sit down to dinner around 9:30 pm or so.

Looking to go out and dance the night away? Realize that most Buenos Aires nightclubs will be completely deserted until 2-3 am when partiers pour in and dance until well past dawn.

🌊 Headed to Iguazu Falls? Don’t miss my 3 Day Iguazu Falls itinerary planner!

Understand the Currency Conversion Situation

Argentina used to have two very distinct currency conversion rates: the official rate and the “blue dollar” informal rate. This led to a situation where you could sometimes get up to double the official rate by exchanging physical US dollar bills for pesos.

But, recently, President Javier Milei’s government floated the peso, and those rates have (mostly) converged since 2025. 

The practical effect of this is that for you, as of writing, it’s no longer necessary for most tourists to carry fistfuls of cash dollars to Argentina to exchange.

Most foreign credit and debit cards now give rates that are close enough to the informal rate that I usually pay via credit card instead of bothering with exchanging cash. 

That said, this is Argentina, and things can change quickly! I recommend checking the latest blue dollar rates here before your trip. If you see a massive spread, consider bringing cash to exchange the old school way or using Western Union to “send yourself” cash at a rate that is very close to the dollar blue. 

Tango Shows are Touristy, But Still Worth It

Yes, tango shows are touristy. Most locals have never been to one. Clara only went to her first show with me (and, yes, she actually knows how to dance tango). 

But I still strongly suggest going to a tango show. They are a unique and fun experience. I’ve been to several, and I always enjoy them. Buy tickets (ideally including dinner if you can swing it), put on your best clothes, and enjoy the show. 

I’ve been to several tango shows, and my favorite is the Señor Tango show. The venue is just incredible, and the show is next-level (there was even a horse on stage at one point!). That said, just know its location south of La Boca is not the best area of the city, especially in the evening when the shows happen. Take a taxi or Uber there directly. Do not try to walk or take transit, please.

FAQs about Staying in Buenos Aires

Where should I NOT stay in Buenos Aires?

Avoid staying too far outside the center. Also, avoid staying in La Boca, although you absolutely should visit La Boca. Just go during the daylight, and stick to the touristy parts around Caminito (the colorful street you see in photos). That area is well patrolled by police, and you should be safe during the day, but I wouldn’t recommend straying too far, and I definitely wouldn’t recommend walking around at night. 

How many days is enough for Buenos Aires?

You need at least 3 days to see the essential sites in Buenos Aires, but 5-7 days is more ideal if you want to take your time to soak in all the city has to offer. 

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I hope I’ve helped you find the perfect place to stay. 

Next up, check out Clara’s guide to what to do in Buenos Aires during your visit. It covers all the “must sees” but also some hidden local gems.