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I went to Mexico City for the Day of the Dead Festival. Here’s why you should, too.

Updated February 24, 2026
Travel Lemming writer Catherine Driver, smiling for a photo in front of the colorful entrance gate to the Zócalo

Mexico’s Día de los Muertos festival, or Day of the Dead, is a feast for the senses.

And I am obsessed. 

I love everything about this celebration: the colourful ofrendas with their meaningful symbolism, pots of bright orange and yellow marigolds that pop up at every turn, and the stunning Catrinas with their smiling skull faces and opulent gowns

But what I find most special about this holiday is that, although it pays homage to those who have passed, it’s not a somber occasion, but rather a festive and celebratory one. And I think that’s a beautiful way to remember loved ones. 

View of the huge Catrina at the entrance to Chapultepec Park
The massive Catrina at the entrance to Chapultepec Park – she lights up at night

I had always wanted to visit Mexico during the Day of the Dead. I got a taste during my gap year in Spain, but I knew that wasn’t anything like experiencing it in the place where it all began. So, while watching the festivities on Instagram a year prior, I decided I couldn’t stay away any longer and booked my trip right then and there. 

Mexico City had been on my list for a long time, and I am so glad that I saved my first visit for this time of the year. It’s an astonishing place, made even more so by this celebration. 

So, if you’re like me and have always dreamt of a trip to Mexico City to experience the Day of the Dead, read on.

I’ll share all of my favourite things to see and do during the fiesta, as well as tips and tricks I learned (some the hard way!) about navigating the city and its events during this busy time. 

¡Vamos!

The Day of the Dead: What It is & How It’s Celebrated

The ofrenda with marigolds at the Gran Hotel
The ofrenda at the Gran Hotel

The Day of the Dead is a blend of Aztec and Mesoamerican rituals with Roman Catholic traditions, popular in Mexico and Latin American countries. It is a festive time to honour and remember those who have passed.   

The main holiday falls on November 1st and 2nd, when it is believed that the dead return to visit their loved ones. However, the celebrations begin in mid-October, with many days devoted to specific groups. 

Friends and families create personalized altars, known as ofrendas, in their homes. These displays include photographs, candles, and mementos of the deceased, as well as their favourite food and drink. 

The colorful Day of the Dead symbols at the La Ciudadela artisan market
At La Ciudadela artisan market

You won’t have access to people’s homes, but don’t worry, you’ll see ofrendas everywhere in public, such as at major attractions, markets, shops, and plazas. And they are all wonderful. 

There is also the tradition of visiting the cemeteries during this time. Families clean and decorate the graves, and spend time there playing music, sharing a meal, and holding vigils to honour their loved ones. 

The Day of the Dead is full of symbolism, and it’s woven through everything.

Travel Lemming writer Catherine Driver, posing in front of the fountain surrounded by marigolds at Chapultepec Castle
Marigolds at Chapultepec Castle

Orange and yellow marigolds, known as cempasúchil, are all over the city. They represent the sun. It is said that their scent and bright colours guide spirits home, and they are often laid out like a path from the doorway to the altar.

Sugar skulls (or Calaveras) are colourful skulls made of sugar. They represent the sweetness of life and are a joyful way to remember loved ones. You’ll see these at the ofrendas or given as gifts. 

The colorful Papeles Picados hanging over the Jean Paul Gaultier ofrenda
Papeles Picados hang at the Jean Paul Gaultier ofrenda

The papeles picados, paper banners with intricate cut-out designs, signify the wind and the fragility of life. These will often be hung on ofrendas, around doorways, along the streets, and in cemeteries. They are a colourful and festive way to welcome spirits home. 

And then there are the parades, which represent the reunion of the living and the dead. These are spectacles like nothing I’ve ever seen. They last for hours and consist of massive floats, colourful costumes, traditional dancing, and music. The scale of these parades and the creativity involved blew my mind!

A colorful animal art sculpture of Alebrijes
Alebrijes are made up of different animal parts
A colorful art sculpture of an insect
They are spiritual guides and protectors

There are three main parades throughout the fiesta: the Alebrijes parade, the Catrina parade and the Great Day of the Dead parade. Be sure to attend at least one during your visit. You will never forget it. 

View of the colorful skeletons at the Great Day of the Dead parade
Some joyful skeletons at the Great Day of the Dead parade

Although it falls at the same time of year and shares some similarities like death, costumes, and skulls, the Day of the Dead is not Halloween. It is a revered celebration, and is not to be treated as “spooky season” or a tourist attraction. For foreigners, this is something to be mindful of during your visit. 

What to See and Do During the Day of the Dead Festival

There are amazing things to do and see during the festival. Here are a few things you shouldn’t miss:

Hang out in the Zócalo

The Plaza de la Constitución, informally known as the Zócalo, was my favourite place to be during Day of the Dead, mainly for its mega ofrenda, which I loved. 

Tens of thousands of marigolds cover the entire square. And massive statues of skeletons and animals tower over visitors below. The theme and figures change every year. When I visited in 2025, it honoured 700 years of Mexico-Tenochtitlán history, tradition, and poetry. 

But there is so much more in the Zócalo than the mega ofrenda. There are smaller altars, a large market, artistic displays, and live entertainment on a huge stage. And it’s all free!

Stroll the Paseo de la Reforma

The Paseo de la Reforma is not only one of Mexico City’s most beautiful streets, but it’s a hub of activity throughout the fiestas. 

I quickly discovered that a one-week trip wasn’t enough for me, so I decided to extend my stay. I moved to the wonderful Hotel Estancias VIVEMX, which is a short walk from the Reforma in one of Mexico City’s lovely neighbourhoods. I would definitely stay here again. 

In addition to being a main route for the parades, the wide sidewalks of the Paseo de Reforma transform into a glorious exhibition space during the fiestas. Stunning Catrina statues, huge painted skulls, and fantastical Alebrijes line the sidewalks for miles. Prepare to spend some time here, photographing them all. 

The colourful Alebrijes on the street
One of the colourful Alebrijes
A beautiful skeleton displayed along the street
And a beautiful skeleton

I loved nighttime the most, when all the lights came on. Monumental Catrinas and illuminated tunnels turn the streets into a magical fairyland. Join the locals for a paseo among thousands of twinkling lights, and be sure to take a taco break at El Califa, my favourite!

Enjoy Day of the Dead food

Closeup look of the Pan de Muerto and a drink
Pan de Muerto is so yummy!

A lot of seasonal food is on offer during Day of the Dead. Try it all! My favourite is the pan de muerto with its symbolic dough bones. 

Call me boring, but I like the plain one with a hot chocolate on the side. But they also come in different flavours, like orange, or with fillings such as Nutella or Dulce de Leche. Tamales, pozole, and calabaza en tacha (candied pumpkin) are also popular during this time. 

Mexicans love to dine out, and the city is home to loads of famous restaurants that always require a reservation. Hello, Pujol! I treated myself to a belated birthday meal at Masala y Maíz, which I wholeheartedly recommend. It was an incredible experience, and I could see why I was advised to reserve a few weeks in advance. 

Support a local artisan

Closeup look of the local painted skull
My skull – she is so beautiful!

I wanted to buy a skull to commemorate my trip to Mexico City. I scoured the markets and street vendors, but everything seemed mass-produced, and nothing really spoke to me. One of the things I noticed about Mexico City was how much stuff there is everywhere. And to be honest, a lot of it is junk.  

One day, I was walking down Paseo de la Reforma, and I noticed a woman selling skulls she had painted, one of which was the exact colour and design I was looking for. Lots of people were hovering around her, so I slid in there to snap it up right away. She even signed the bottom with my name after I paid.

Mexico City is bursting with creativity, and it’s home to many talented artisans. Go to them for meaningful souvenirs. You’ll support a hard-working artist and receive a quality treasure in return.   

Take a boat ride in Xochimilco

The colorful trajineras lined up in the canal
The colorful trajineras lined up in the canal (photo: Jessica Leyva Alarcon / Shutterstock)

I was so excited for my boat tour of Xochimilco. I arrived at the meeting point the morning of, only to find out that the names of my entire group were not on the list. There was a huge mix-up with the tour company, and my tour didn’t end up running that day. I am still disappointed about that. But it’s a reason to go back!

Although my visit was a bust, a boat ride in Xochimilco shouldn’t be missed. During the fiestas, boats, known as trajineras, meander up and down the canals. They are decorated with marigolds and candlelight. Stories are told, incense is burned, and mariachi music is the soundtrack. 

But you don’t have to wait for Day of the Dead; this Xochimilco Boat Ride is a must-do experience all year round!

My Tips to Help You Navigate the Festival, Stress-Free

The crowds were like nothing I’ve ever seen or experienced before, and I learned a few things. Here are my best tips to help you navigate this exhilarating time, stress-free:

Book your hotel well in advance

View of the corner of the terrace at Hotel Principal
A sweet corner on the terrace at Hotel Principal

I booked my hotel a year ahead of my trip. Hotels in Mexico fill up quickly for Day of the Dead, and even faster in the smaller towns and cities around the country. Choose a place you can cancel if something comes up. But decide where to stay in Mexico City as soon as possible. 

I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Principal in the Historic Center. I loved this hotel so much and would stay here again. It was affordable with charming rooms, a beautiful terrace, and great service. And the location was perfect. It was just off Avenida Madero, Mexico City’s gorgeous pedestrianized street, full of lovely shops, restaurants and attractions. 

Of course, there are hundreds of other hotels to choose from. Here’s a quick summary of our team’s top picks:

For detailed reviews (and even more options), make sure you bookmark Nate’s guide to the best hotels in Mexico City.

If possible, arrive in Mexico City early in the day

The crowd at the Mexico City’s Historic Center at night
This was the scene when I reached Mexico City’s Historic Center

I flew to Mexico City on October 26th, the day of the Catrina parade. I was coming from Las Vegas, and my flight didn’t leave until 3 PM. By the time I landed, the parade was in full swing, and getting to my hotel in the Historic Center was a challenge. 

I took public transit from the airport, but my bus was rerouted, the roads around the center were closed, and the crowds were heaving. I finally arrived, exhausted, but seeing the parade gave me a second wind. It was amazing, but trying to get there in the dark on a parade day was too stressful. 

After this experience, and especially if you plan to take transit from the airport, I recommend arriving early in the day. It’s safer and easier to get your bearings when it’s light out. And during the fiesta, there is a good chance of road closures around the Historic Center and Paseo de la Reforma. 

Late October is an amazing time to visit, weather-wise

Travel Lemming writer Catherine Driver, smiling in front of the Catrina
Me posing with a Catrina
View of the Catrinas at the Guadalupe Basilica on a sunny day
Catrinas and sunshine at the Guadalupe Basilica

I couldn’t have asked for better weather during my entire 12-day stay in Mexico City. Every day was sunny and warm (around 24 degrees Celsius), and I didn’t experience a drop of rain. I couldn’t imagine fighting the Day of the Dead crowds with an umbrella and heavy layers!

Late October/early November is the beginning of Mexico City’s dry season, so it’s an awesome time to visit. The days are sunny and warm, and temperatures cool in the evening. 

I recommend packing summer clothes for daytime exploring, and a light sweater or jacket to wear out in the evenings. Once the sun went down, I was surprised at how chilly it got. 

📖 Read Next: For a comprehensive list of what to take to Mexico, check out Taylor’s amazing Mexico packing list

Rise with the birds

People walking along the Avenida Madero
Before the crowds descend on Avenida Madero

Avenida Madero is the main thoroughfare to the Zócalo. Every morning, I would leave my hotel around 8 AM to enjoy the street and visit the mega ofrenda in peace. I also liked to hit the iconic Pasteleria Ideal for breakfast before the line-ups. 

Head out early. Because as the day goes on, the crowds arrive. Once the sun goes down, it is impossible to walk, and the crowds in the Zócalo stand shoulder-to-shoulder. 

Some of Mexico City’s most magnificent sights are in the Historic Center. Visiting early is the best time to see the main attractions. I also got my favourite photos early in the day. It was really hard to get great shots as the crowds gathered. 

Make reservations and book tickets as soon as you know your dates

The colorful ofrendas at the Frida Kahlo Museum
The ofrendas at the Frida Kahlo Museum were my favourite

Everything books up during Day of the Dead due to high tourist numbers. The lines at the main attractions are long, and tours fill up quickly, particularly those to the Frida Kahlo Museum

If there’s something you really want to see, book it straightaway. And reserve your tickets online for popular attractions, like the Anthropology Museum and Chapultepec Castle. Sure, this takes the spontaneity away, but it will save a lot of disappointment or time wasted in long queues. 

If you plan to watch the parades, secure your spot long before they start

A huge Catrinas at the Great Day of the Dead Parade along Paseo de la Reforma
The Great Day of the Dead Parade along Paseo de la Reforma

Mexico City’s parades are guaranteed to take your breath away! 

I arrived late to the Catrina Parade, so it was tough to snag a prime viewing spot. So, for the Great Day of the Dead Parade, I arrived two hours early to secure a spot up front. Even then, the crowds were beginning to gather. 

Yes, the wait is long, but it doesn’t have to be too arduous. There are many vendors in the area selling small folding chairs. Grab one of these and a few snacks to make it more enjoyable. 

Avoid the metro during rush hour

View of the paintaings and mural at CDMX’s Auditorio Metro station
Where am I? At CDMX’s Insurgentes Metro station

I had been walking and taking the metro around Mexico City quite easily. But midway through my trip, I decided to visit the Guadalupe Basilica and Ex Fabrica in one morning so I could return to the center before rush hour.

The Basilica took much longer than I expected (but so worth it!), so by the time I reached Ex Fabrica and finished there, it was 2:30 PM.  I was tired, and it was too far to walk. I hurried to the nearest metro station, hoping to beat the rest of Mexico City, but it was not to be. 

When I got to the platform, I couldn’t believe my eyes at the number of people waiting. I jostled my way to the section for women and children (one of my favourite things about CDMX) and waited for the train to arrive. 

The Home Alone inspired mural at the at Ex Fabrica
How I felt on the metro – Graffiti at Ex Fabrica

The metro screeched to a halt in front of me. I was pushed into the car and held up by the people around me. I couldn’t hang onto anything. At one point, I was practically forced onto a poor girl’s lap. I looked at her with sad eyes and mouthed“Lo siento mucho.” She smiled and told me not to worry. 

I thought I was going to be crushed to death. 

I was shocked by how, at every station, more people squeezed themselves into that car, and how everyone seemed so chill. I guess they’re used to it. It’s a funny story now, but it will be Uber for me if I ever find myself in this situation again. 

***

A huge and colorful Catrinas with marigolds in the Zócalo
One of my favourites in the Zócalo

Mexico City is one of the most amazing places in the world, and incredible at any time of the year. Even though the crowds were enormous, I loved every moment of these celebrations. In fact, it was even better than I expected! 

I fell in love with Mexico City, and I will continue to return. But I have a feeling it will always be for Day of the Dead. I can’t imagine Mexico City without it.

Need even more inspiration for a trip to Mexico City? Up next, check out Sky’s epic 7-Day Mexico City Itinerary!

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2 Comments

  1. This is such a vibrant and helpful firsthand account! I love how you captured the festive, life-affirming spirit of Día de los Muertos—it’s so different from the somber tone of typical death-related holidays. The tip about arriving early in the day to avoid parade chaos is practical gold (your metro crush story made me both laugh and cringe in sympathy). Also, the advice to support local artisans rather than buying mass-produced souvenirs is so important. The mega ofrenda in the Zócalo sounds absolutely breathtaking. And now I’m craving pan de muerto with hot chocolate! Definitely bookmarking this for when I finally make it to CDMX. ¡Gracias!

    https://www.fareschoices.com/

    1. Thank you so much for this lovely comment, Mathew. It made my day!
      Visiting Mexico during the Dia de los Muertos fiesta really made me look at death differently. It was quite eye opening to see how the Mexicans inject joy and hope into something sad. It really changed my own perspective when it comes to those I have lost. 
      I hope that my experiences with the crowds will help you and others minimize the stress when you visit. Although, the metro at rush hour does make for a funny story after the fact! 
      I can’t recommend Mexico enough at this time of year. So definitely put it at the top of your list! Now I need to go and hunt down that hot chocolate! It is sooo good!! 
       

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