Georgian Supras are the best way to experience Georgia

I’ve traveled extensively through the Republic of Georgia. 

The country is home to majestic mountain peaks, towering medieval churches, and a culture unlike anywhere else on earth.

There is a lot about Georgian culture that is unique. You could devote an entire lifetime to studying the alphabet, language, and music alone. Most of us don’t have that luxury, though. 

So, the best way to get a taste of Georgia’s culture is at a traditional feast called a supra.

There’s much more than just food at a Georgian supra, though.

Georgian Hospitality & The Meaning of Supra

In my opinion, the people are always the best part of a country. No matter how grand or fascinating the natural and manmade wonders may be, nothing beats interactions with the locals.

Georgians have been famous for their hospitality since antiquity. The best way to see this first hand is at a supra. 

The word supra translates to tablecloth, the point being that the tablecloth should not be visible due to all the dishes. 

My best memories with friends from Georgia come from the many festive meals we’ve shared.

The Foundational Elements of a Supra

The foundational elements of the feast are, of course, the food and drink. Georgian cuisine, like the rest of the culture, is unique. It bears a few outside influences, but these have been integrated and reinterpreted into the uniquely Georgian idiom. 

To call Georgian food tasty and diverse would be like saying the ocean is big and wet.

At first glance, a restaurant might seem like the best place to begin your culinary odyssey. The food is almost guaranteed to be good, but the service can be hit or miss. A friend and I once waited for an hour for a rather simple order – only for it to “still be coming.”

Not every restaurant is that bad, but you’re much better off looking for a more private culinary experience.

How and Where to Participate in a Supra

It’s easy to make friends in Georgia, so chances are good that, in time, you’ll find yourself as a guest at someone’s table. In the meantime, though, private food tours to homes are the best option – especially in the villages and towns.

It’s also good to know what the major public holidays are in Georgia. Get to know people, and you’ll likely be invited to a celebration. Georgians are always looking for a reason to get together, and life in Georgia is peppered with festive occasions. Birthdays, baptisms, and anniversaries are just the tip of the iceberg.

Upon arrival, you will notice that the evening proceeds a little differently from what you may be used to in the West. 

Georgians are very casual people, but there’s a specific structure to a supra.

What to Expect at a Supra

The True Toastmasters

One of the biggest differences most Westerners will notice is that Georgians are not content with just saying “cheers!” when they toast. Far from it, in fact.

Toasting in Georgia is a chance to share what is in your heart. It’s more of a blessing or a prayer than a mere “here’s to you.” Everything and everyone is commemorated. This includes family members – both living and departed – and the nation as a whole.

Here’s a rough outline of what to expect (it won’t be followed verbatim):

• The toast to God and for peace – Georgians are generally religious (Eastern Orthodox) and, with their wartorn history, peace is a cherished value.

• To Georgia (Sakartvelo in Georgian) – Georgians are intensely patriotic and proud of their culture, so there will always be a toast wishing the best for their beloved homeland.

• To the deceased – Georgians deeply value friendship and family connections, so every feast will be marked by memorial toasts to loved ones who have passed on.

• To children and new life – it’s only fitting that new life also be commemorated (and Georgians are very emotional when it comes to children.)

• To parents – Georgians, of course, also value their parents. Georgians especially cherish their mothers (Georgian is unique in that the word for mother is deda, whereas mama means father).

• To women – Georgian culture is also highly chivalrous. The women who prepared the feast will be thanked, and other women will also be praised, whether wives, sisters, girlfriends, etc.

• Guests – A Georgian proverb states “A guest is a gift from God.” It would be unthinkable to overlook a guest.

• Guests who arrive late/leave early – Punctuality in Georgia means showing up at least half an hour “late” (by Western standards). No one minds, so if anyone arrives late, or has to leave early, their health will still be drunk.

Whew! That’s a lot, but honestly just the basics. Expect more. Much more.

The good news is that, as a foreigner, you won’t be expected to remember all of this or to give an award-winning speech. Just say something simple and from the heart, even if it’s just thank you (and trust me, you’ll find your eloquence after a few glasses of wine).

The toasts will be led by a tamada or toastmaster. The tamada is often an elder or respected friend known for their eloquence. In the past, especially in villages, particularly well-spoken individuals served as “freelance” tamadas – not a bad gig!

Take Your Time

Another big difference is that Georgians are never in a hurry to get dinner down and get on with the evening. Supras, especially on holidays, will routinely last several hours. Pace yourself on the food (and especially the alcohol) – you’re going to be there for quite some time. 

Georgians are also in much less of a hurry in almost every way. It’s common, almost standard, for more dishes to come out well into the feast. Late is a very relative term in Georgia.

Hydration

Despite bottled water being a major industry in Georgia, you’re not likely to find much still water on the table at a feast. You will, however, find the copious wine and spirits complemented by soda and sparkling mineral water. 

With so much rich, salty, and heavy food, you may find yourself getting dehydrated. Fruit is commonly served at most supras but it may only come out with dessert. If you are going to a supra, be sure to arrive well-hydrated.

Also, while Tbilisi’s water is generally considered safe to drink, I always felt a little under the weather after doing so. Buy some bottled water or use a water filtration device.

A Few Menu Highlights

Georgian food is as diverse as it is delicious, but there are a few stand-bys that no festive table could be without:

Khachapuri

Khachapuri is a savory cheese bread with several regional varieties. The most common Imeruli is a flat, round pie, but other common types add diced eggs or an extra layer of cheese. 

There are also the “cousins” of khachapuri: lobiani (beans instead of cheese) and kubdari (seasoned meat instead).

Khinkali

The undisputed king of the Georgian kitchen, khinkali are meat-filled dumplings. You can also find vegan-friendly options filled with mushrooms or potatoes, but these are more likely to be found in restaurants than in most homes. 

These are finger food and you may get funny looks if you try to tackle them with a fork and knife.

Lobio

A savory bean dish. This is especially popular during the colder months and is often served with mchadi (see below). Lobio was traditionally served in a small clay pot, but most homes opt for more standard dinnerware.

Mchadi

A dense cornbread. Mchadi are one of the most-loved comfort foods for Georgians, although, honestly, they’re a little too dry and dense for my tastes. I did, however, find chvishtari, the variety from the Svaneti region, to be tasty – it livens things up a little by adding cheese.

Pkhali

A vegetable paté of sorts, most often made from spinach or eggplant. Beets are another common one. Walnuts are usually included, so if you’re allergic, it may be better to try something else.

Wine

Most table wine in Georgia is amber or white. Georgians also have their own names for their wines, independent of the varietal names we know in the West. Georgians also have a special, traditional method for making wine, aging them in large clay vessels called qvevri.

Chacha

A distilled spirit made from the “leftovers” of the winemaking process (skins, stems, etc.). It’s usually around 40% ABV, but (especially in the villages) can be much higher – a friend’s father once gave me a bottle of “homebrew” that was 63% ABV!

Singing and Dancing

Traditionally, toasts are followed by songs, and, when the evening really gets going, dances. However, Georgian dancing is much different than what we know in the West. Look up some videos (a full description is beyond the scope of this article!) and prepare to be amazed.

Song and dance aren’t as common at the table as they used to be, but you may still find a few toasts followed by some tunes. If you’re lucky enough to be invited to a wedding party, expect all the stops to come out though. 

Don’t be afraid to get out and try a few steps. I’ve found that Georgians will be happy to see you make even a small effort and will encourage you, showing you the steps.

Learn a little Georgian

Georgians across the board are fervently proud of their culture. They know that they aren’t the most well-known of nations, so if you learn even a few phrases beyond “hello” and “thank you,” they will be thrilled.

If you really want to make them laugh, use this highly supra-relevant phrase, shemo-mechama. It translates, roughly, as “I didn’t mean to eat it, but it was so good it just forced its way into my mouth!”

Here are a few more supra-related vocab words that, while not as amusing, are much more practical:

Gaumarjos – Cheers!, or literally, “to victory!”.

Alaverdi – If someone is nominated for an alaverdi, they must give a follow-up toast. As a visitor, you won’t be expected to give one, but it’s good to be prepared, just in case.

Vakhtanguri – Two people intertwine their arms to drink the toast. If you’re offered this, then you know you are one of the tribe.

Qantsi – A drinking horn. These are usually reserved for special occasions. When you see it, know that all the stops are coming out. No matter how large it is, it will be full of wine. You have been warned!

Keipi – another word for supra, meaning “feast.” This is more commonly used among Georgians to refer to a festive meal.

Madloba – Thank you. Or, if you want to add emphasis, say didi madloba (dee-dee mad-low-bah) or “thank you very much.”

Gemrielia – It’s delicious! This is, however, a dangerous thing to say if you’re starting to feel full. There’s not really a phrase to politely deny more food being offered!

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Have you been to Georgia before and had any great experiences at Supras? I’d love to hear about them in the comments below!

(Featured Image Credit: Murrr Photo / Shutterstock)